When it comes to brown liquors, it’s easy to feel like you’ve seen everything there is to see (and, frankly, a few things you never wanted to see—we’re looking at you, Fireball). One can become resigned. Depressed. In short, jaded. Wandering from specialty liquor store to specialty liquor store, staring, desultory, at shelf after shelf of things you’ve already got on your bar cart back home, you may feel like there’s nothing new under the sun. But then, catching the light from another section of the store, stocked tidily next to—oh lord, is that apple pie moonshine?—things that aren’t whiskey at all, you see it. Pitorro Anejo. With an improbable history (the owners had to convince the unconventional master distiller, their Puerto Rican uncle, to move to New York just to get into production) and an even more improbable taste, this traditional Puerto Rican moonshine is nothing if not expectation-defying. Distilled from sugar cane, it’s technically a rum, but Port Morris Distillery ages the spirit in new and reclaimed American barrels to create a complex, oakey, apple-y flavor that’ll certainly be familiar to whiskey drinkers. The barrels are naturally agitated by the vibrations of nearby Amtrak trains, further imbibing flavor in a modern twist that’s delightfully surprising. And that’s really what Pitorro Anejo is—a delightful surprise. Take heart, hardened old whiskey aficionados— sometimes the best new thing isn’t even in the whiskey section. Get it here.